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The Hidden Gap Behind Your Drywall That Keeps One Room Cold | BEEST

DIY Homeowner Journal
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Spray Foam Company Founder Reveals Why One Room in Your House Never Warms Up (It's Not the Vent):

The Hidden Gap Behind Your Drywall That's Been Keeping One Room in Your House Cold for Years

Plus: The 12-Can Spray Foam Kit With Hundreds of 5-Star Reviews That Seals It the Next Time the Wall Is Open
Foam going into an open stud bayFirst pass
Tall room walls finished in foam before drywallDone
Open walls from BEEST's project library: a bay getting its first pass, and a finished room.

Hey folks, I'm Andy, co-founder of BEEST, and my family makes spray foam for people who fix their own houses.

Every house has one.

The back bedroom. The office over the garage. The room on the north corner.

The rest of the house is fine. That room is always colder.

You've checked the vent. You've closed the doors. You've put a space heater in there.

That room isn't cold because of the heat. It's cold because of what's behind the drywall.

Give me five minutes. I'll show you what's back there, why nobody fixed it, and the one moment you can fix it for good.

Why Everything You've Tried Hasn't Worked

If you have a cold room, I'd bet you've tried most of this:

  • Closed the vents in the other rooms. Pushed more heat at it. It still lost.
  • Put a space heater in there. It runs all night.
  • Put foam gaskets behind the outlet covers. A few bucks. A little help.
  • Hung heavy curtains. Helps at the window. Not the wall.
  • Added more batts during a remodel. More of the same thing that wasn't working.

None of it worked. And here's the part nobody told you: none of it touches the root cause.

The Hidden Root Cause: Air Goes Around the Insulation

Pull the drywall off that wall and you'd probably find insulation. Pink or yellow batts in every bay.

So why is it cold?

Because batts slow heat, but they don't stop moving air. And the air has a dozen ways around them.

The gap where the wall sits on the floor. The gap at the top plate. The rough opening around the window. The holes behind every outlet box.

Cold air slips in through those gaps, runs down the bays and comes out at your outlets and trim.

That draft you feel at the outlet cover? That's the wall breathing.

That's the root cause. Not the vent. Not the furnace. Gaps the batts can't close.

batt outlet box window top plate floor gap window gap Batts slow heat. They don't stop moving air. Cold air goes around the batt and out at the outlet.
The rough opening around a window. One of the gaps hiding behind the trim.
The rough opening around a window. One of the gaps hiding behind the trim.

Why Nobody Fixed It

Nobody can see it. It's behind the drywall.

When the house was built, batts were the job. Sealing every gap was nobody's job.

And once the drywall's up, it's hard to get back in there.

So the only time to fix it for good is when the wall is open. A remodel. A new window. A tub going in. A wall that has to come down anyway.

Most people put new batts in and close it right back up. Same gaps. Same cold room.

Wall's Open? Seal It Before You Close It

When the wall is open, you can do it right in one afternoon.

Foam the gaps. Then batt it, or foam the whole bay.

Spray foam goes into the gap at the floor, the top plate, around the window and around every box. Then it sets into a layer of insulation on the sheathing.

That's why we built FullStop as a 12-can kit with a real metal gun, not a single can.

  • 12 cans and a metal gun. One open outside wall is about 1 kit at 1 inch. No compressor. No rental.
  • R-4.12 per inch. Two 1-inch passes get you R-8.24 at 2 inches.
  • DualCore foam. A closed-cell outer skin with a flexible center. People ask us open or closed cell. It's a blend of both.
  • Class A fire-rated. Cured FullStop tested ASTM E84 with a Flame Spread Index of 0.* Your local code still decides whether it needs an ignition or thermal barrier, so check with your inspector.
  • Gloves, goggles and a coverall in the box. Plus a metal gun and cleaner. Bring your own respirator.
  • Run the wiring and plumbing first. Check every pipe and wire before you spray. Plan access for anything you'll need later.
What's in the 12-can kit: foam, metal gun, cleaner, gloves, goggles, coverall.
What's in the 12-can kit: foam, metal gun, cleaner, gloves, goggles, coverall.

How the Afternoon Goes

Here's the job, start to finish.

  1. Warm the cans to 68F. Inside the house, the room is usually warm enough. Surface and air need 41F or warmer.
  2. Finish the rough work first. Wiring, pipes, boxes. Make sure every bay is dry.
  3. Suit up. Respirator, gloves, goggles, coverall. Plastic on the floor. Tape off the boxes.
  4. Practice on cardboard. Five minutes with the gun and you've got it.
  5. Spray the gaps, then the bays. Floor gap, top plate, window opening, boxes. Then a 1-inch pass in each bay. Let it set. Second pass for 2 inches, or batts over the first pass.
  6. Air it out. Window open, fans on. Give it 24 to 72 hours before anyone sleeps in there. Then drywall.

Keep flames, sparks and pilot lights away while you spray and until the vapors clear. Follow the instructions in the box.

Sealing the top plate in an open room.
Sealing the top plate in an open room.

How Many Kits Does a Room Take?

This is the first question everyone asks. Here's the honest math.

One kit is 12 cans, rated 240 sq ft at 1 inch on paper. Real use runs about 70% of that. That's our estimate, not a lab test.

One can is rated about 2 stud bays at 1 inch on paper. In real use, plan on about 1.4.

Job About At 1 inch At 2 inches
Tub surround 45 sq ft 1 kit 1 kit
One outside wall, 12 ft long 96 sq ft 1 kit 2 kits
Corner room, 2 outside walls 192 sq ft 2 kits 3 kits
12x12 room, all 4 walls 384 sq ft 3 kits 5 kits

Real use, rounded up. 8 ft walls.

Round up, never down. One buyer put it best: “Covers less than you think it will, plan ahead.”

Most rooms only have one or two outside walls. Measure just those.

Use the calculator →

What Happened in Other People's Rooms

“Bought it to just do behind a tub/shower, before installing and now I might just do the entire house myself.”
“this spray foam kit sealed every crack in my attic in no time and definitely made my living room feel warmer and quieter!”
“Surprised how easy this was. I had never used spray foam before this but it really was pretty simple after about 5 minutes.”
“Was nice to be able to speak with someone.”

FullStop customer reviews, Judge.me. Verbatim.

We asked our customers what changed after the job:

89%
noticed fewer drafts
90%
noticed better temperature control
80%
noticed lower energy bills
99%
did the job without hired labor

Customer-reported, individual experiences vary. Not a promise of savings from BEEST.

The Questions I Get Before People Buy

Can I do it without opening the wall?
No. The foam has to go into an open bay. If the wall's closed, start with the rim joist and the attic hatch instead.
What about wiring and pipes later?
Run and check them before you spray. Plan access for anything you'll need to reach later.
Do I still need batts?
You can foam the gaps, do a 1-inch pass and batt over it. Or do two 1-inch passes for R-8.24 at 2 inches.
Is it flammable?
While you spray and before it cures, yes. Keep flames, sparks and pilot lights away until the vapors clear. Cured FullStop is Class A fire-rated (ASTM E84), Flame Spread Index 0.* Your local code decides whether it needs an ignition or thermal barrier.
I've never sprayed foam. Can I do this?
Plenty of our buyers had never touched foam before. Practice on cardboard, spray thin passes, let each one set, and you'll be fine.
Isn't it cheaper somewhere else?
The kit comes with a metal gun, cleaner, gloves, goggles, a coverall and video help. And a person who picks up the phone when you have a question halfway through the job.
Is this a real company?
We're BEEST, a family-owned company. Call us before you order and a real person answers: 1 (800) 540-4671.

Here's What I'd Do Next Time a Wall Is Open

Don't close it the same way it was.

Measure the bays. Count the cans. Seal it before you close it.

The FullStop Spray Foam Kit

One open outside wall? One 12-can kit. A corner room? Get the 24-can pack (2 kits).

  • 12 cans, metal gun, cleaner, gloves, goggles and a coverall in every kit
  • Rated 240 sq ft at 1 inch on paper. Plan on about 170 sq ft in real use
  • 1-year limited warranty. Register within 30 days and the foam warranty extends to 10 years, free
  • Free shipping and 30-day returns
New Customer Exclusive Offer
$189.99 $199.99

New customer price for the 12-can kit. Bigger jobs: 18, 24 and 36-can packs.

★★★★★ 4.7 stars from DIYers

👉 Get The FullStop Kit For Your Room

Questions first? Call 1 (800) 540-4671. A real person answers.

The cold room has a hole in it. Now you know where.

Andy

Co-founder, BEEST

This is an advertisement by BEEST, the company that makes FullStop. Andy is a co-founder of BEEST. Project photos are from BEEST's content library and show customer and creator projects, not one home before and after. Results vary by home, climate and installation. Customer-reported results are individual experiences, not a promise of savings from BEEST. Kit counts are planning estimates at about 70% of rated yield, not a performance guarantee. Always wear a respirator, gloves, goggles and a coverall, follow the current product instructions and safety information, and check your local building code. *Class A fire rating (ASTM E84, Flame Spread Index 0) applies to cured foam under controlled test conditions.

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