New Drop
New Drop
Steel Wool + Foam
Expands 2–3×
12 oz Cans
BEEST FullStop™ Pest Block Foam
Comparable Value:
$349.99
You're Saving
Save $110.00
You're Saving $110.00
You're Saving









New Drop
Steel Wool + Foam
Expands 2–3×
12 oz Cans
BEEST FullStop™ Pest Block Foam
Seal rodent entry points permanently—before they become a costly problem.
Two simple steps: pack with steel wool, then seal with foam
Everything you need in one kit—take on the job with confidence
1. Choose your kit size:
Best Value
Whole-floor pass
Best Value
A few entry points
Full-house sweep
BEEST Steel Wool Roll
Micro-Serrated Scissors
Wooden Push Tool
Work Gloves

Free Shipping
Estimated Delivery By:

30-Day Returns
U.S. Based Support

American Owned
Product Details
A two-material system for sealing rodent entry points: professional-grade steel wool plus single-component expanding polyurethane foam, applied wool first and foam over the top.
Foam type
Single-component expanding polyurethane
Can size
12 oz
Expansion
2–3×
Cured finish
Rigid, light yellow
Tack-free
5 minutes
Trimmable
1 hour
Full cure
24 hours
Application temperature
Ambient 41–86°F, can at 68–77°F
Cured temperature range
−22°F to 176°F
Flammability
B3 — keep away from flame and heat
Shelf life
12 months from receipt
Steel wool + FULLSTOP foam
Seal,Trim, Paint
Tools Included
Steel wool + FULLSTOP foam
Seal,Trim, Paint
Tools Included
Steel wool + FULLSTOP foam
Seal,Trim, Paint
Tools Included
Steel wool + FULLSTOP foam
Seal,Trim, Paint
Tools Included
Steel wool + FULLSTOP foam
Seal,Trim, Paint
Tools Included
Steel wool + FULLSTOP foam
Seal,Trim, Paint
Tools Included
Why Most Gap Sealing Fails
Foam on its own gets chewed through
It seals the gap and looks finished, but it is a soft barrier. Nothing about cured foam stops a determined rodent from working back through it.
Steel wool on its own doesn't hold
Wool packed into a gap mats down and compresses over time, especially in wider openings. The gap quietly reopens and nobody notices until something gets in again.
So the same hole gets sealed twice
Most kits in this category hand you one material or the other. FullStop Pest Block ships both, as the method, not as an add-on.
What's In The Box
Remove inconsistency, fatigue, and failures from your spray jobs without risk or guesswork.
Pest Block expanding foam
12 oz cans with their own applicator nozzle. No caulk gun needed.
Not Your Average Steel Wool
Heavy-duty interlocking fibers create a tougher, more secure fill for gaps and openings.
Micro-serrated shears
Sharp enough to cut steel wool cleanly. The scissors bundled into kits in this category usually aren't, which is a complaint worth not earning.
Wooden push tool
For packing wool into gaps too tight or too deep for fingers.
Work gloves
Steel wool splinters and cured foam doesn't wash off. Wear them.
The 3-Step BEEST Method
The wool is the barrier, the foam is the seal. The order is what makes both of them work.
1
Seal
Pack steel wool into the gap, then spray foam over it. Don't overpack, the foam needs room to expand.
2
Trim
Wait an hour, then cut it back flush with the scissors in the kit. Cutting earlier tears the surface.
3
Paint
Only if the seal gets direct sun. Wait for full cure at twenty-four hours, then use an oil-based topcoat.
Where Rodents Actually Get In
Pipe Penetrations
Plumbing
Electrical Runs
Cable Entries
Door Gaps
Window Frames
Foundation Cracks
Sill Plates
Garage Door Frames
Attic Penetrations
Crawl Space Vents
Basement Gaps
Under-Sink Openings
Utility Entries
Pipe Penetrations
Plumbing
Electrical Runs
Cable Entries
Door Gaps
Window Frames
Foundation Cracks
Sill Plates
Garage Door Frames
Attic Penetrations
Crawl Space Vents
Basement Gaps
Under-Sink Openings
Utility Entries
Rodent entry picks up sharply in fall as temperatures drop. Sealing before the weather turns is the difference between blocking entry points and dealing with what's already inside.
Professional-Grade Pest Block Kits
Everything you need to seal rodent entry points properly, without a service call or a second attempt at the same gap.
Which size do I need?
Match it to entry points, not square footage. 3 Cans + 6 Rolls for a handful of gaps. 4 Cans + 6 Rolls for a typical whole-floor pass. 6 Cans + 9 Rolls for a full-house sweep.
Can I use the foam or the wool on its own?
No. Use them together, wool first and foam over the top. Each material is doing a job the other one cannot.
Can I paint over it?
Yes, once fully cured at 24 hours. Recommended for anything sun-exposed — use an oil-based topcoat.
Is it waterproof or UV resistant?
No. It hasn't been tested for waterproofing, and it isn't UV stable. Paint sun-exposed seals with an oil-based topcoat.
Is it flammable?
The foam is rated B3. Keep it away from open flame and heat sources during application and until fully cured.
How do I clean up?
While wet, wipe with acetone or a similar solvent. Once cured, remove it mechanically. See the SDS for the official procedure.
What if the nozzle clogs?
Check that it's shaken and in the right temperature range first. If it arrives clogged or defective, that's a quality issue — contact support for a replacement or refund.
Still Have Questions?
Can't find the answer you're looking for? Please chat to our friendly team.
Contact Us
30-Day Returns
Before You Start
Remove inconsistency, fatigue, and failures from your spray jobs without risk or guesswork.
Prep the surface
Clean and dry the area so the foam bonds properly. Size up the gap and cut enough wool before you open the can.
Mind the temperature
Shake the can and keep it between 68–77°F. Ambient needs to be 41–86°F.
Protect what's around it
Cured foam only comes off mechanically. Mask surrounding surfaces and wear the gloves.
Don't rush the trim
Wait for the one-hour mark. Cutting earlier tears the surface. Don't force a clogged nozzle either.
Walk the whole area
There is rarely just one entry point. Check pipes, vents, cable runs, baseboards, garages, attics, basements and under sinks.
Two Materials, One Method
Cures Rigid & Trimmable
Fills Multi-Surface Gaps
30-Day Returns


